Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
